The drive from Yackandandah to Mount Beauty winds through some of the most breathtaking countryside I’ve encountered in Australia. A tapestry of roads – Myrtleford-Yackandanda Road, Carrolls Road, Happy Valley Road, and the Great Alpine Road – passes gloriously through rural areas that could have auditioned for Lord of the Rings! Rolling farmland, tranquil valleys and lofty mountain vistas at every turn, making the journey feel like the destination.
Teeny high-country towns snuggle into the hills, and big Black Angus cattle, their glossy coats shimmering in the sunlight, dot luminous green pastures. Above it all, enormous blue skies stretch wide and open, a striking contrast to the rich greens below. A feast for the senses and the soul.
Despite its name, Mount Beauty isn’t actually a mountain (surprised me – I guess a little research might have been useful.) It’s a picturesque alpine village tucked into the fertile Kiewa Valley at the foot of Mount Bogong, which is an actual mountain, the highest in Victoria. Serving as a gateway to the Alpine National Park, Mount Beauty is a base camp for skiing at Falls Creek, a hub for mountain biking and hiking, and is surrounded by local farms, wineries, and breweries, none of which we had time to sample!
The village is Mount Beauty Pondage adjacent, part of the Kiewa Hydroelectric scheme. The pondage is encircled by a flat 3km gravel trail, framed by alpine peaks, the air humming with birdsong and native birdlife. From here, you can branch onto the Kiewa River Trail, a gentle 4km return walk tracing the eastern bank of the river. The track meanders through open farmland, past pretty brooks and rows of deciduous trees glowing with autumn colours. So glad we included this on our itinerary!
From Mount Beauty to Mount Buffalo National Park, and hindsight being what it is, we absolutely did not allow enough time to explore this extraordinary part of the High Country. The vast granite plateau of Mount Buffalo rises dramatically above the Ovens and Buffalo Rivers, carving out sheer cliffs, deep gorges, and cascading waterfalls. It’s a bushwalker’s paradise, with crisp mountain air, gently flowing streams, snow gum and alpine ash woodlands, and ridiculously photogenic granite boulders. With more than 90 kilometres of walking trails ranging from easy strolls to demanding mountain hikes, the hardest part is deciding where to begin.
We chose two relatively easy walks, both beginning at historic Mount Buffalo Chalet. The Gorge Heritage Walk, a 2.5k return loop, was shrouded in dramatic fog that created an otherworldly feel. The trail wound through towering alpine ash and gnarled snow gum forests, past massive granite tors – freestanding rock formations, some balanced in lofty stacks – and we were tantalised by the sounds of tumbling waterfalls that the mist obscured. It was super impressive, however, the thick whiteout put the kybosh on any hopes of dramatic cliffside views or sweeping canyon vistas.
Slightly disappointed but stubbornly optimistic, we pushed on to The Monolith track. Officially listed as a 1.8km return walk, all three of us called BS! To be fair, I was battling a cold and moving at a glacial pace – and letting everyone know about it of course – but still, this one firmly belongs in the “things that make you go hmmmm” category.
The Monolith is a massive, naturally balanced granite boulder, sculpted over millions of years by weathering and erosion and perched 1,464 metres above sea level. The trail to this amazing tor winds through the same sub-alpine landscapes as The Gorge Heritage Walk, the crisp mountain air carrying the unmistakable scent of eucalyptus – a quintessential Aussie bush aroma.
After navigating a scattering of boulders, the trail pitches sharply upward into a final stretch of steep, rocky steps. It was a hard slog to the top, and I was convinced I was going to meet my maker. Instead, I saw the light, with the summit revealing sweeping 360-degree views across the Mount Buffalo Plateau, surrounding alpine ranges, and Lake Catani, shimmering far below. Spectacular is an understatement.
By the time we made it back to the car park, the mist had finally lifted, revealing outrageously beautiful views from Bents and George Lookouts – a last lingering reminder of just how special this place is. Mount Buffalo National Park is absolutely one of those destinations that demands a multi-day itinerary. I’m not done with you yet!
