A part of Melbourne’s DNA, the Shrine is a rockstar mononym. Aka Shrine of Remembrance, it is Victoria’s national memorial honouring the service and sacrifice of Aussies in war and peacekeeping. A cultural landmark, it opened in 1934 as a place to grieve and remember Victorians killed in the First World War. Now it provides a place of remembrance for all Aussie service and sacrifice in all wars since Australia’s Federation in 1901. With panoramic views from the Balcony over thirteen hectares of the Shrine Reserve gardens, the Eternal Flame, burning continuously since 1954, and the Second World War Memorial forecourt, it’s a heritage icon you need to add to your bucket list.
A fitting tribute to our Aussie warriors, the Shrine was designed by two Melbourne returned soldier architects, Phillip Hudson, and James Wardrop, who beat 82 other Shrine designs in a competition. Inspired by the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus (in Turkey), it was built in the late 1920’s, early ‘30’s with funds sourced from a public appeal.
Architecturally impressive for its time, a hole in the Shrine’s roof was meticulously designed so that every year at 11am on the 11th day of the 11th month (the actual time the armistice was signed to end the First World War in 1918), a natural ray of sunlight could stream into the Sanctuary. Orchestrated to hit the Stone of Remembrance, it shines a light on the word “love” in “Greater Love Hath No Man”, which is etched into the stone.
Two questions: Sunlight in Melbourne? Daylight Saving? Ok, I just googled, and the daylight-saving matter was resolved by installing a mirror system that directs the light to a mirror, which deflects to a second mirror, then onto the Stone. But when I asked Siri what happens if there’s no sunshine on Remembrance Day in Melbourne….crickets….
The Shrine’s big gigs are Remembrance Day and Anzac Day. If you only ever partake in one dawn service in your life, make it the one at The Shrine. The ceremony commences at 5.30am, the same time the ANZACs approached the beach in Gallipoli, facing their first conflict in WWI. A dawn commemorative service recalls the moments just before first light, pre-battle, when soldiers manned their weapons and were ordered to “stand to” in quiet comradeship. Calm before the storm.
Enveloped in darkness, the temperature arctic, moody orangey-gold lighting reflecting off the pillars, forty thousand people whispering in the shadows, fog breathing on each other. Then an audio crackle. The sound of horses snorting and stomping, a voice with a quintessential Aussie twang, calling to a mate in the trenches. It feels like you are there, in the trenches.
It’s a solemn service that includes the Long G, bugled as a sign for troops to prepare for battle; the Ode of Remembrance; and the Last Post, a call to end the day’s activities, also sounded at military funerals, signifying the duty of the fallen soldier is over, and they can rest in peace. One minute of silence for reflection, then Reveille breaks, symbolising the awakening of the fallen into the next world. Reveille does me in every time. I cannot hear it without getting a lump in my throat and tears in my eyes and, at this service, a quiet sob.
There are recitations, hymns, and wreath-laying, and when done, you can scoot up to Federation Square and follow the veterans march down St Kilda Road, back to the Shrine. Make sure you head inside the Shrine to see the informative exhibits, galleries, and the Sanctuary. “Galleries of Remembrance” feature collections of artefacts, images and interactive displays that showcase Australian military history across various conflicts.
An interesting footnote: The Shrine of Remembrance is currently courting controversy in that a deal has been signed with a catering company to host cocktail parties and events at the revered site. Perceived by some veterans as “trampling over the dead”, it has generated some buzz. Personally, I love the ritual observances of Anzac Day, how we share those traditions with our cuz’s over the ditch, and I do believe in its sacrosanctity. But I can see what an incredible venue it would be for a special event, and if they could channel all proceeds from said events into RSL support services…just sayin’.
I spent over two hours at The Shrine and most definitely need to go back to see the rest! Do NOT miss this on your Melbourne itinerary!
