Over the years, the Bali tourist influx has marched progressively to the west – From Kuta, to Legian, Seminyak then Canggu – all discovered, upcycled, over-insta’d, meh, move on! But a little-known jewel of the west has yet to be discovered and decimated by the hordes.
Hit the chicken (check out a map of Bali – chicken laying an egg) and go left for 3-4 hours (traffic pending.) Medewi is traditionally a “surf safari” destination, with a left-hand point break that can roll for 800 metres. Offering one of the longest rides in Bali, it’s an easy wave, mellow and slow-rolling, a dream for goofy footers and long boarders, playful and soft breaking. It also offers the added incentive of being somewhere on the island of Bali that just isn’t inundated with tourists!
Just so you know how serious Medewi is about surfing, there’s a huge sign that says “Surfers to Read”, itemizing the rules of engagement, banishing “learn to surf” peeps to the protected bay area away from the point break, and prioritizing local surfers over tourists. Medewi is a volcanic sand beach, littered with colourful fishing prahus, and surfers need to negotiate a rocky foreshore to get to the holy grail, but it’s totally worth it and the break is long and allows for plenty on it.
Unlike the rest of Bali, Medewi is predominantly Muslim, mosques abound and the haunting call-to-prayer is a calming backdrop to the slow-paced life in the west.
Do yourself a favour and stay at Bombora Medewi. Owned by a surfer, created for surfers, it’s oceanfront with an infinity pool that blurs the line between pool and ocean. With a funky white and yellow aesthetic, attentive staff (who all remember your name – impressive) super fresh, innovative food options and rooms that feature chunky wooden furniture, vaulted ceilings and ocean views (pay extra for that – you deserve it!) #bloodyawesome.
Surfboards are easily and cheaply hired, Wayan and her daughters do a wicked hour-long massage for $12AUD (yeah, you could probably get it cheaper, but let’s not be manky tourists eh?) and there are a few restaurants on the short strip if you can drag yourself away from Bombora (I’m betting you can’t.)
Make sure you have rupiah before you get to Medewi as the hotels don’t have currency exchanges and if the money gods haven’t restocked the ATM’s in town, you’ll be in all sorts!
If the surf is rubbish and you want to explore the wild west, head up the laneway and ask any local on the strip if they can find you a driver for the day. There’s always a Ketut or Wayan who has a Nyoman or Made who can take you on a day trip. Add the tree with the hole in it (my eloquent description of Bunut Bolong – echoes of Bag End) to your itinerary, followed by the rarely visited waterfall, Juwuk Manis – 1,000 steps down, 20,000 steps back up!
The west of Bali, and particularly Medewi, is the great unplug. Surf, Massage, Eat, Repeat – my mantra @ Medewi.
