A small town in the Karo Highlands, North Sumatra, Berastagi is around 66k’s south of Medan and jump-off point to the strato sisters. Mount Sibayak and Mount Sinabung are both stratovolcanoes, cone-shaped, built up of alternate layers of lava and ash, characterised by steep sides and prone to explosive eruptions. Dormant for over 400 years, Mt Sinabung launched back into action in 2010, killing two people and displacing 30,000 locals, and has been dangerously active ever since. With frequent eruptions of ash plumes and occasionally lava flow, there’s a red zone surrounding Mt Sinabung and climbing is strictly no-go.
While Mt Sibayak exhibits geothermal activity, steaming fumaroles, crystalised brimstone and the stinky rotten egg smell of sulphur, it hasn’t erupted for over a century and is safe to climb (until Mother Nature decides otherwise). A stunning backdrop to Berastagi and 2,181m above sea level, the summit is a 3.5km walk from the registration hut and popular for sunrise hikes. Not a fan of floundering around mountain trails in inky blackness, we arranged a respectable 7am pickup (and were later super happy we chose this option!)
Once out of Berastagi, the drive to the registration hut was punctuated with unsealed roads, busted asphalt and large rocky sections that required us to disembark the vehicle while our driver, Benk Benk crept arduously forward, trying not to snap an axle. On arrival at the ranger’s hut, I was absolutely stunned at the number of motorbikes in the parking area. It seems Sumatra was having a public holiday for Eid al-Adha, and that everyone under the age of 21 had exited stage left from Medan to camp on Mount Sibayak (sigh).
When you sign in at the registration hut, there’s a giant billboard to the left, in local lingo but happily translated by our guide; it details all the tourists who have died on the mountain over the years (lol, marketing 101 anyone?) It’s a not too successful deterrent for anyone who wants to hike without a guide. For us, it was a no-brainer. Aside from adding money into the economy, the local intel was incredible. You just don’t get all the tea if you go it alone.
Jamil, our guide, was an absolute wealth of information. He regularly took us off-piste to see carnivorous pitcher plants and natural medicinal foliage used to address infertility, to smell the sweet burn from trees that produce incense resin, and he tortured us with photos he took of a wild orangutan in the same area just two weeks previous! He was an awesome guide with fascinating stories to tell, including the one where he was struck by lightning climbing the biggest volcano in West Sumatra and almost died!
One constant on the hike was the hordes of locals who chose to pitch their tents anywhere and everywhere enroute and at the top of the mountain near the crater, camping overnight for sunrise. There are no limits on visitor numbers or permits required for camping on Mt Sibayak, and despite signs everywhere requesting respect for the volcano, sadly there was an abundance of litter. I imagine sunrise must have been treacherous with so many people jostling for position on the various crater vantage points.
The hike transitioned from dense, lush rainforest with giant Pandans to the stark, otherworldly landscape of a volcanic caldera. The sound of hissing gases escaping from neon yellow vents, a rugged, almost post-apocalyptic topography, vast views taking in Mt Sinabung and surrounds, it was stunningly ethereal. The crater lake, almost empty when we were there, revealed a plethora of names and messages, spelt out in rocks, one asking Alysha to “marry me”. I pondered aloud whether she said yes, and Jamil laughed, saying she did, as he was one of the guides responsible for creating the message. Local knowledge…priceless! We did the whole up and back in 4 hours, and that included plenty of time wandering the crater, climbing vantage point trails and snapping breathtaking pics.
In Berastagi, we stayed at the Mountain View Homestay and Pizzeria, and with that name, expectations were high. Slightly out of town, surrounded by farmland, 360-degree views of both strato sisters, delicious pizza and cold beers. It doesn’t get any better than that!
Sidenote: To get our awesome driver Benk Benk and amazing mountain guide Jamil, WhatsApp Ricky Riccardo on +62 878-6320-4091. He is a rockstar, seamlessly organising the Lake Toba to Medan part of our North Sumatra journey.
